It’s the time to chaat!
It’s the
time to chaat!
Tangy, salty, sweet, hot, spicy, crunchy you can choose the degrees
according to your taste and palate. This is about chaat, one of my favourite food items, no, maybe of most of the
people, in the Indian sub-continent.
What used to be purely street food being sold on khomchas (conical stands made of lightweight cane), thelas (carts) on streets and tiny
hole-like corners in marketplaces, has slowly found a prime spot in various chaat bhandaars (storehouses of chaat) exclusively selling these items
or mithai (Indian sweets) shops. Chaat has now been elevated to a level
where you can find it on the tables of famous restaurants too.
This is neither a
sponsored piece (though I would gladly have done that) nor a food review, not
even a research paper. It is about a unique food category that the Indian
sub-continent offers and anyone can try even on a full stomach.
Chaat comes from chaatna,
the Hindi word for licking, whether you lick the dona/pattal (bowl made out of
dried leaves) or paper plates clean or your fingers. It is not against
etiquette. The clicking of your tongue against your palate as you taste the
spicy delicious snack i.e. chatkhare lena,
is a reflex action to that.
Chaat, a purely vegetarian
addictive food item, comprises a variety of snacks which you might not refuse
even though you just had your meal. It does not include mini meals of
combinations like pav bhaji, idli sambar,
Chhole bhature or dal ke cheele etc.
I
do not know who invented it and how it started, though legend has it that it
spread from Uttar Pradesh to the rest of the country where it took the regional
flavor and now the people there like it in that avatar. Every city in Uttar
Pradesh whether it is Lucknow, Kanpur, Agra, Mathura, Meerut or Allahabad, claims
that it has the best chaat and their
lovers cannot be argued with. Delhi is also credited with being the place of
origin of some kinds of chaat. In the
southern states, most of the chaat
sellers are from Bihar and they seem to be
making good money in this business. Such is the hold and fame of chaat sellers that every area in a city
has its own famous joint even though some are undeniably better than others.
Every chaat seller also swears by his
secret spice mix.
Although Oxford
English Dictionary describes chaat as a
South Asian dish consisting of fruit or vegetables with spices,
yet most of the chaat items have a crisp and crunchy deep
fried (who doesn’t love that) base of refined flour and semolina or dals (pulses). Further calories are
added in the form of lightly spiced, sweet-sour imli (tamarind) chutney, hot coriander and mint chutney, sweetened
yogurt, a spoonful of boiled chickpeas or black gram, boiled potatoes, small or
large pinches of black salt, and powders of red chillies, coriander seeds,
roasted cumin seeds, dried mangoes and chaat
masala. Whatever the appearance of this
heap, it is very rarely that somebody does not
enjoy a ‘plate of chaat’.
During our summer
holidays at my Nani’s (mother’s
mother) place in Dehradun, all of us kept our fingers crossed that Kuldeep
mama’s annual visit would coincide with ours. The reason - every evening he
would stop Tan Tan Uncle (the chaat seller who would play on his
griddle with his spatula to notify his arrival) and treat us to chaat before our grandfather returned
from the court and chided us for eating spicy, unhealthy food.
There are hundreds of
variants but here goes the basic list for you to choose from today:
Aloo tikki: (potato patties) Boiled
potatoes flattened into tikkis (discs)
and shallow fried till they are crisp, served with imli (tamarind) chutney and yogurt and with or without chhole, that is magic. In Mumbai they
are served with a spicy curry of boiled white peas and called ragda patties. Even global food joint McDonald’s
has cashed it with its McAloo Tikki Burger sold in India.
Matar ki tikki: In Lucknow and some
other cities of Uttar Pradesh, boiled and mashed white peas are made into tikkis and shallow fried. They are
served with a liberal squeeze of lemon juice, julienned ginger and dry spices.
Samosas: Who hasn’t heard of the
chai- samosa combo? Travelling from
the Middle East to the Indian sub-continent and far beyond it, this triangular stuffed
cone known by different names in different countries, continues to be everyone’s
favourite. In India it is generally filled with boiled and spiced potatoes and
peas. Hot samosas coming out of scalding oil are eaten with or without chutney
and chhole. A quick snack and
favourite of students or those on a budget is samosa sandwiched between two slices of bread.
The slightly
heavier kachori, is the deep-fried
flaky puffed up sister of samosas,
stuffed with spicy moong or urad dal paste. Bangladeshis swear by its
cousin Dhakai chaat. Kachori or khasta
is eaten with spiced potatoes and imli
chutney.
Papri chaat: This is made of thin
discs or crackers of deep-fried dough. It is very popular in Punjab where the papri is wafer thin and extra crunchy.
The crackers are dipped in tamarind chutney and on that go yogurt and boiled potatoes
and black gram, of course, powdered spices too, according to how much your
system can take.
Sev papri:
This variation of papri chaat has an
addition-small, thin, fried crunchy gramflour noodles and green chutney.
Golgappe: This is
the only item eaten with different fillings in different parts of India where
it is known by different names too- pani
batashe, gupchup, pani puri, puchka. A purely Indian invention, golgappas are hollow balls of deep fried
dough. A little hole is broken into the crust and the ball filled with black
gram and boiled potatoes in Delhi and Punjab, boiled white peas in Uttar
Pradesh, and boiled potatoes and onions in Hyderabad and then everywhere, a
touch of tamarind chutney, then dipped in spiced water to fill it. The water
can have the dominant flavor of tamarind, lemon juice, hot spices or
asafoetida. You open your mouth wide to eat it as a whole. Broken midway, it is
not kind to your clothes.
Earlier,
the water used to be stored in earthernware pots and stirred many times to
prevent the spice mix from settling down. These days it is kept in
plastic/glass/stainless steel containers.
Some golgappa - lovers fill golgappas with various juices or vodka for cocktail or
dinner parties, but honestly, nothing is as good as the water with the right
balance of spices.
I
practically behave like an idiot giving up all pretence of being wise and
mature, when a mound of stuffed golgappas
is in front of me. It brings me no shame in admitting that one reason I love
Amitaji is because she is extra considerate and always has golgappas ready for me whenever I visit their house. Does she know
the reason for informing her before the visit?
Bollywood golgappa lovers |
Dahi
chutney ke golgappe are just what the name says. The golgappas
are not filled with water but with sweet yogurt and imli chutney.
Pakoras: Vegetable fritters
i.e. vegetables diced or cut in roundels, coated with lightly spiced gramflour (instead
of refined flour as in the west), deep fried and served with mostly green
chutney. The choice of vegetables is endless, but potatoes, onions, cauliflower
and paneer (Indian cottage cheese)
are the traditional ones. This is perhaps the quickest chaat item to make at home too and thus very few people eat them
outside.
Palak ki chaat- The first time I
had it was in Lucknow. Whole spinach leaves coated in besan (chickpea flour) batter and deep fried are like palak ke pakore. But they are served with the chutneys and if you like,
yogurt on top, which differentiates them from pakoras.
Mangodi is deep fried balls
of soaked and ground moong dal. Green
chutney is the favoured accompaniment. A variant is Ram ke laddoo which are made with a paste of moong+ chana (black gram) dals.
Dahi wada (or dahi bhalle): Urad dal is soaked and ground, made into balls or doughnut shapes
and fried. These are soaked in hot water to soften them, then squeezed and put
in yogurt. They soak in the goodness of slightly sweet and salty yogurt and are
served with chutneys and spices. Dahi
vada is a popular item on the dinner menus too. By the way, to me the
homemade dahi wada tastes better because
the ones sold in shops are sickly sweet as if they have been dipped in sugar
syrup.
Then come the two stone-heavy items:
Raj kachori –A huge golgappa, the size of a puri, filled with moong sprouts, boiled potatoes, chickpeas, crushed bhalle, yogurt and chutney. So heavy is
this, that one Raj kachori can easily
make a meal for a grown-up.
Basket chaat – Also called lachchha tokri, it is a tart like small
bowl made of grated, pressed and fried potatoes and
filled with nearly the same ingredients as the Raj kachori and unarguably as heavy too.
Matar ki chaat is a curry of white peas served with chutneys and spices. A
variant, masala puri, is said to have
originated in Karnataka and is popular in all the southern states. I wonder if
my two former colleagues in Hyderabad Manjula and Anuradha remember our evening
chai breaks during the link shift
when we’d go to Ramu’s cart round the corner for chai but after polishing off a plate of masala puri at another cart.
In the end I take up the case of bhelpuri,
with its own identity. Such is the fame of this dish that Vir Sanghvi has written a piece on bhelpuri in his column Rude Food and it is included in his book Rude Food: The Collected Food Writings of Vir
Sanghvi (By the way, he has also done so for samosas and traced the history of this
food item, which reminded me how much we used to enjoy my mother’s mutton keema samosas as kids before she realised that exposing us to a
large variety of laboriously cooked items at home would mean risk spending
nearly all her waking hours toiling in the kitchen the rest of her life). The
only chaat dish which is not fried,
it is not wrong to say that this puffed rice salad mix is perhaps the
healthiest among them all as well.
Puffed
rice is the base in which are mixed sev, roasted or fried peanuts, diced onions,
boiled potatoes and tomatoes, tamarind and coriander chutneys. The mix is thoroughly
tossed and then served in a paper cone. Sometimes papri or potato chips are also added to give an extra crunch.
Counted as a Mumbai speciality, it has its Bengali version- the jhalmuri (hot puffed rice) and churmuri in parts of Karnataka. Maybe
this too had migrated to Mumbai with the workers from UP.
Salty,
tangy, sweet spicy, and crunchy, it gets soggy fast. These days dry bhel mixture, chutneys and spices are
packaged and sold by Indian snack industry giants. You just add the fresh veggies
and hey presto, bhelpuri is ready. Some
people like their bhel with sev or yogurt.
Nowadays the very
health-conscious among us have shunned all the above-mentioned foodstuffs and
moved to fruit and vegetable chaat with
corn, beetroot, cucumber, even bananas and grapes, cottage cheese, mixed with
oats and cornflakes with low sugar chutneys. But for me, nothing beats the
original criminally calorie-rich, traditional version with very little
nutritive value. My only issue is that some chaat
seller also pile up grated carrots, beets and radish, boondi (tiny fried globules of chickpea flour) and pomegranate
seeds on the top especially on dahi wada
or papdi, totally killing the feel of
the crunch of the crispy fried base under it.
Although not a fan of fancy variants of chaat myself, I have several times kind of hoodwinked my son when
he was small. Once in a while if he pushed the bowl of dal away, I would make him dal
chaat. A layer of thickened dal
on crisp toasted white bread, topped with tamarind and green chutneys, finely
chopped onions and tomatoes with chaat
masala sprinkled on it and the little boy would happily polish that off and
even give me a lovely smile.
A couple of points of caution, however, about chaat-
My years of chatora (chaat gourmand, if you please) experience have taught me that it is
always safe to eat chaat from a place
where everything finishes by the end of the day. The seller does not
refrigerate anything and does not use or mix stale food the next day. Who
hasn’t complained about stale potatoes in samosas at least once in his/her
lifetime even from the best of places?
All the items used in
chaat are touched, stirred, dipped
spoons in, again and again by the chaatwala
which, if he is not careful, may actually breed germs.
The golgappe water can be a carrier of
water-borne diseases especially in the monsoon season. The mischief-maker can
be the ice, the water itself, or if the preparation is stale.
Yet, a friend had
once complained that she used bottled water to make golgappe water but the result did not taste as good as the street chaatwala’s with his wet, wrinkled hands
wiped on the much-used red rag on his shoulder as he serves you, dipping each golgappa in the pitcher of extra-spicy water
while you stand around the cart waiting for your turn and having eaten, move
away fanning your burning open mouth with your hands and breathing in air to
soothe your scalding breath.
The photos
tell the story as an Indonesian friend Imelda sits down to taste a golgappa for the first time in her life.
Should I open my
mouth this wide?
|
Hope Melicor (left,
from Phillipines) encourages her to put it in her mouth at one go.
|
Imelda struggles to keep her mouth shut as the ball breaks releasing the
spicy tangy water.
Photos courtesy: Ruchira Tewari, who used
to magically conjure up a huge bowlful of golgappas,
with the accompaniments, for the girl gang’s pooled lunches when we were in
Berlin, Germany, together.
…
I wish this article came with some real time golgappas popping out of my screen diving right into my slurping mouth. Not fair to excite your taste buds and then leave you alone with no maid to help you in making at least one of those dishes. The blogger please note that this is a grave offence and I could file a suit:):):)
ReplyDeleteI agree with Shalini ma'am 😀
ReplyDeleteI am a pani purist...that is my favorite item. Mom...bhookh lag gayi
ReplyDeleteTempting topic and its compelling me to taste one of the dishes at least once. I have spoiled my countless kanjivaram silk sarees by staining them with golgappa water while attending marriages and other get togethers
ReplyDeletePublishing such an article at the time of Lockdown is very unfair to Chaat Lovers. Either prepare yourself some of the items and call upon readers to actually know what is Chaat as many of us are forgetting the taste.
ReplyDeleteJokes apart, you said it is not a research paper but none less.
Excellent non stop commentary.Did not know you were so good at Chhat!
ReplyDeleteThe article is million times more spicy, crunchy and mouthwatering than the CHAAT itself. My fav is Aloo Tikki and every thing written about !
ReplyDeleteTangy, tasty, toothsome writing! I would add that the chaat of Lucknow is the real thing. What you get in Delhi etc is not a patch on authentic Lucknow chaat.
ReplyDeleteSir it reminded me our college days when we use to enjoy these chats in Mumbai Choupati. As rightly said these chats can be had even tummy is full after the meal.
ReplyDeleteSorry to say that in the present scenario all the chatt sellers and eatary stall on roadside have Zero business and now eitheraeither selli
Either selling vegetables or doing labour work
ReplyDeleteGood read. Rarely do you eat more than a couple of items at one go at a chatwallah. But the variety is such a lot, you realize this while reading this. Wonder if the basket chat is also a Lucknow innovation.
ReplyDeleteBhabhi jee
ReplyDeleteVery unfair. At this lockdown chaat ki tadap ka koi samadhan nahi
Pl advice chaat party kab aur kanha hai
Bhabhi jee
ReplyDeleteVery unfair. At this lockdown chaat ki tadap ka koi samadhan nahi
Pl advice chaat party kab aur kanha hai
What a mouthwatering tribute to the king of all Indian foods! Unfair to conjure this mental image in these challenging times but nonetheless really enjoyed the well written piece!
ReplyDeleteJust like the mouthwatering goodies, the narration is also very enjoyable. Longing for the good old days when we can enjoy these chats like before.
ReplyDeleteNice article, but only for reading purpose because we Sr citizens can't have them after taking meal as you have written. A good article to have information on different varieties of chaats, now chillas, rolls and other snacks can also be added in the category of chaat.
ReplyDeleteYou have beautifully covered all the types,features of chaat...gupchup...a tantalizing chaatfest
ReplyDeleteNever imagined someone could describe chaats so well as to generate a craving for them in me just by reading written words....sigh...
ReplyDelete