Tawang Diary -2

Ball of Fire amidst greenery

The sight that greeted us as we started our climb.
How did the driver achieve this?

After leaving the hotel at Bhalukpong, our first stop was the Tippi Orchid Research Centre at Sessa on the west bank of Kameng river. This 10-hectare tropical forest-like area has a garden, a glass house, a tissue culture laboratory and orchidaria. Perhaps it was not the season, so very few plants had flowers on them. The orchidarium with its potted orchids was, however, a lesson in the varieties grown in that region.

This short break in the cold cloudy morning was warming us up about our first day in the state when we noticed that visibility was getting poorer as we drove up the hills. We stopped at the famous Nepichu falls to enjoy this treat of nature. But that was not to be. Only streaks of water were visible through the clouds. We were not alone. There were many other vehicles parked there. Scores of tourists crowded the place, clambering down to where the waters fell and they could find a foothold for taking selfies and photos.

Poor visibility!

And then came a Tempo Traveller, throwing up from its insides, a big group of tourists coming all the way from Gujarat. In decibel level, their noise matched the falling waters'. My efforts to enjoy the beauty of the cascading strings and rivulets were defeated by this new enthusiastic gang.

Irritated, I looked around, and the photo-session of a senior couple caught my eye - their arms around each other, lovingly smiling into each other’s eyes, trying to include the fall in the backdrop, checking if they looked good. In no time, I too got involved in directing them on how to take the photos so that the wife could wrap her arms around the huge circumference of the nearly-bald man’s enormous hanging abdomen that was desperately struggling for accommodation, under the stretched fabric of his green tee shirt. His tight hug and wide smile seemed to announce that he was mighty pleased with himself.

After more than a dozen photos taken under the expert guidance of about ten strangers instructing them, the wife stepped off the pavement, pulled her cheeks back to normal, saw me looking and said muskurate muskurate thak gayi (Got tired of smiling). I nodded back, uncertain though if she meant smiling for the camera or after so many years of marriage.

Just as we got back into the car, the clouds decided to show mercy. You could see them rising up the mountains and the spring displayed its original beauty.

Nepichu Falls

We drove ahead giving a miss to the Shiv Mandir because of the steps to be climbed and stopped at the Ball of Fire Museum, Tenga. 

Raised on September 23, 1939 at Secunderabad, Ball of Fire Division was given the responsibility of overseeing the surrender of the Japanese in Singapore and Indonesia. During the second World War, it was the only one which fought the Japanese, German and Italian armies in North and East Africa besides, in Imphal, Kohima and in Burma. Since 1962 when it was called to restrict the Chinese movement further into Arunachal Pradesh, it has remained in Tenga and has been recategorized as a Mountain Division. The insignia of this 5 Mountain Division is a Ball of fire, hence the name.

The museum records the history, courage and sacrifice of the Division through photographs and collections of weapons to showcase it for the coming generations. 

We spent more than an hour there, reading about the tales of bravery of the division and looking at the weaponry. This was followed by enjoying a bite at the Tenga Haat which serves fresh, inexpensive, tasty snacks. The army runs canteens on the way to Tawang where warm clothes are also sold.  

We continued with our trip, driving among clouds, covering the meandering roads and, looking at dozens of waterfalls and hundreds of prayer flags to reach the small town of Dirang for the night. Before going in for dinner and calling it a day, we took a walk in the small market. From what I understood, the quiet town is a popular night halt before you climb further into the mountains.

A view of Dirang Town 

The sunrise next morning brought forth a visual pleasure, a view of several small and medium sized kiwi and orange farms. Unfortunately though, it was the season for neither to fruit.

The first thing to do that day was to visit the Nyukmadung war memorial. Most tourists skip memorials or there is a mere mention of them in their narrations. Inspired by AVS travelling with us, our plan was to visit as many as we could and pay our respects to the brave Indian soldiers who had done what none of us does - give one’s life for the cause of the nation.

A confession here. Like crores of other Indians, I also knew the barest of facts about the Indo-China war of 1962. Coming to Arunachal it was slowly sinking in – the cruel climatic and geographical conditions, the faulty decisions of the army brass, the helplessness of our army with its outdated arms and ammunition to fight a better-equipped aggressor and the valour and courage of our soldiers in such a situation.

The three-tiered memorial pays homage to the officers and other ranks from 62 Infantry Brigade who on November 18, 1962, fought the Chinese forces at Nyukmadong village. The battle fought under the command of Brig Hoshiar Singh, saw perhaps the maximum number of casualties in the whole war- 3 officers, 30 JCOs, 862 ORs who sacrificed their lives, told the JCO briefing us. A stupa has been built to commemorate them and the 25 feet high chorten is in accordance with the local beliefs. Plaques bearing the names of soldiers who died on that fateful day, have been erected on both sides of the memorial. Coniferous trees have been planted in the area which add to its solemnity.

Maj K C Praval narrated in
http://www.indiandefencereview.com/spotlights/1962-war-the-chinese-invasion-iii/

When the main column rounded a bend in the road beyond the village of Nyukmadong,

“a harrowing sight suddenly came into view. Vehicles, guns and bulldozers lay scattered. The road and the shallow drain running along it were littered with the bodies of the dead and the dying. This was the end of the vehicle column”.

The main foot column was on the move till 1400 hours when it came under heavy fire from the heights overlooking the road. Soon, the Chinese appeared at the rear also. Efforts to dislodge the enemy failed and by 1600 hours the column was completely disorganized. As darkness enveloped the scene, control was lost and the column disintegrated into small parties. Brigadier Hoshiar Singh reached Phutang after some days but his small party was later ambushed by the Chinese and he was killed.27

The Garhwalis under Bhattacharjea cleared the enemy from several places along their route of withdrawal. However, beyond Nyukmadong this group lost touch with the main column. On arrival at Dirang Dzong after midnight, it was ambushed. Most of its men became casualties; Bhattacharjea was taken prisoner with some others. When a count was later taken, 34 officers, 43 JCOs and 1,610 other ranks of 62 Brigade were found missing. The Garhwalis won many awards for gallantry, including two MVCs and seven Vir Chakras.

Thinking of so many precious lives sacrificed for no reason, of their families suddenly having lost their sons, husbands and fathers within a few hours, we, now shaken and subdued, continued our drive higher into the silent mountains which had been a witness to this unfortunate massacre. (To be continued)

Is it a temple or the government circuit house, on way to Dirang,
we never came to know.
The thought of climbing it killed the curiosity. 

                                                                                               - Anupama S Mani