Bye-Bye Tawang!

Bye-Bye Tawang!

Life of construction workers in the hills is tough, yet the look of wonder in their eyes and charming smiles show no complaints! 

I had wrapped up last week’s Tawang Diary with our drive to Bomdila. 

We reached this small town, also the district headquarters of the West Kameng district, around 5.00.p.m. It was a lot warmer here and we were comfortable without any heavy woolen garment. I was told there is a monastery and a craft museum worth-visiting in town. But due to paucity of time, we merely took a walk to get a feel of the place. It looked like construction of houses and shops was going on everywhere and I hoped that ‘development’ would not cause environmental damage the way it had done in Uttaranchal. Maintaining the unexplored beauty of an area vs promotion of tourism is always the catch -22 situation.

The shops near our hotel were selling beans of several colours and kinds and many dried vegetables/herbs. From our balcony, we could see boys playing football in the stadium.

The following day we started early for Guwahati. We were to spend the night there to take the morning flight back home.

After Bomdila, winding roads slowly opened up to highways and flat plains. The air-conditioner in the car was switched on.

We took a detour in Udalgiri district to visit the India-Bhutan border. It was afternoon, the schools were closing. And we saw several school children riding e-rickshaws with red number plates crossing the border to go home in Bhutan.

We merely walked in the warm humid morning through the no-man’s land to the Bhutan gate and came back. To go into Bhutan, you need your voter’s I-card as a proof of identity. This was one place where our Aadhaar card did not work.

Petrol is cheaper in Bhutan. Funnily, a car-owner crossed the border to buy petrol from the filling station right at the gate. 

Back in the car, I noticed the picture outside the window changing fast to coconut trees, paddy and corn fields, tea gardens on flat plains on the sides of the roads, dusty village markets and busy roads. Bhupen Hazarika’s Buku hom hom kare in Assamese (Hindi version: Dil hoom hoom kare) played in the car as a tiny voice in my head reminded me that this memorable short trip to a beautiful land was over.

Tea garden on flat plains

We stopped to have lunch and I chose dhekia saag for the last time before I left the area. Going over our takeaways from the trip, each of us tried to suggest the destination of our next travel together.

If this journey of mine has sparked in you the interest to see Arunachal:

April - May seem like the best times to visit the area. The snow has melted on most of the roads, the mountains are still snow-covered, the springs and waterfalls come to life in the weather turning warm and you can escape the hot plains.

The monsoon months of June to September see landslides, bad damaged roads, and fog all around as a result of which visibility is poor and drive risky.

The cool, dry months of October, November bring back clear skies, repaired roads, refilled lakes and waterfalls. You can enjoy Tawang festival too.

Winter brings sub-zero temperatures. With everything hidden under a thick cover of snow, and most tourist sites inaccessible, it is for those who love taking risks to challenge their bodies/nature and have the patience to bear pain/discomfort and wait for help in case of accidents and mishaps.

May I offer some pointers?

• The only way to go beyond Bhalukpong is by road. This allows you the freedom to stop, look, take a break, have a chai, talk to the local people and soak in the atmosphere.
• Because each of the seven states of the north east has a different language and the tribal people have various dialects, Hindi is the link language.
• You need a mobile phone or camera to capture memories, skip the wi-fi.
• Most hotels have RO water available, so there is no need to buy bottled water.

Who knows, perhaps you would be successful in finding a solution to the tons of waste generated and left by tourists! I understand that development and construction are essential for promoting tourism and generating more sources of income to people, but they also mean plastic water bottles, cutlery and containers, wax paper cups and plates, and of course thousands and thousands of aluminium foil and plastic bags of chips and other snacks left by users, besides debris and hundreds of empty HDPE sacks left to fly away in the wind; adding to the size of the problem, literally and figuratively. 

Vegetable patches and colourful potted flowers can be seen in every house

Yet, the sheer beauty of the lush green mountains along the way, verdant valleys, hundreds of waterfalls, small towns and tiny villages dotting the route, handkerchief-sized vegetable patches and potted plants in most houses, give you an unforgettable experience. You wish you were a painter or a photographer who could capture the visual images for all to marvel at. Why, I even shout ruko, ruko ruko, board (stop, stop, stop, board) to the driver so I can stop and read the cheesy BRO signboards!

The roads are good, the drive is comfortable, people are warm, army men are ever ready to help, fresh dal-chawal (lentils and rice), subzi (veggies), chicken and chai are always available on the way, and yes, liquor is cheaper. My only regret is I curbed my adventurous streak for trying out new foods because all others were safe eaters and we were hopping from one place to another every day and you dare not risk an unhappy stomach. Maybe next time, some day!

Help is always available

The air-conditioned malls, five-star resorts, gritty, sandy crowded beaches, frenzied shopping expeditions, all can wait. If you can afford it and are physically able to stand high altitude, I suggest, visit the north east once in your lifetime before it changes to a modern monstrosity like some of the other popular tourist destinations elsewhere in the country.

‘The road is there, it will always be there, you just have to decide when to take it.’  Chris Humphrey (Concluded)

                                                                                                -Anupama S Mani