Music is New Orleans' soul

 

Last week I told you that while in the US we had made a weekend trip to New Orleans (nicknamed NOLA). Why not share about that with you, I thought and so…

We took a very early morning flight from NYC on Friday to reach New Orleans before breakfast. The hotel allowed early check-in, a wise business decision because I was told weekends are their busiest time. By the way, during the week days when business is dull, some of them offer inexpensive staycations; the hospitality industry would do well to welcome tourists-domestic or international.

We took a couple of hours unpacking and freshening up and chose to do brunch instead of two meals so that we could make the most of our time in the city.

At a small place known for crepes, we chose savoury ones with spinach, cheese and chicken fillings to kickstart the day.

It was already noon when we stepped out to follow our plan for the day. When we visit a new city in Europe or the US, I prefer taking the ‘hop on, hop off’ bus, if available. It takes you around the main city areas; you are comfortably seated, there is live or recorded commentary, you may get off at a stop to look at a site or place and board the bus again to continue with your journey. You can spend a whole day getting off at a designated stop, exploring and getting on again, for a fixed price for the day. This way you get the feel of the city, get a hint about the people and can decide to visit at leisure what caught your attention enough.

We boarded the bus from a stop nearby. The first bus that came was full, so we had to wait for another 45 minutes to take the next one. I would not have mentioned this but for the fact that the sun shone bright, clear and direct, it was a struggle for the growing crowd to find a spot in the shade of the buildings nearby to wait, so that they were quick in catching the next bus first. There was no breeze either. Coming from the cold of NYC, the heat was a shock to our bodies and minds. Even shoes and socks felt suffocating. And if I may remind, this was only the third week of February. For once we chose to sit at the lower level in the bus, sacrificing a little of the view.

Soon we were distracted by the leisurely ride. The bus took us through the main streets. We had started from the Arts Districts near the riverwalk where big brands have factory outlets. We passed by what used to be Harrah’s casino.

Although we visited the casino very briefly during out stay there, we came to know that America’s first 24-hour gambling casino had opened in New Orleans in as early as the first quarter of the 19^th century. Harrah’s which however, opened in 1999 here, brought the sadness of losing or excitement of winning money back in the lives of people. There are more than 1500 slot machines and a whopping 130 tables to offer the adventurous ones a trial of luck in blackjack, roulette, poker etc.

St Louis Cathedral, French Quarters

We traversed via Jackson square to French market Collonade. You can grab a bite at the food stalls or pick up inexpensive souvenirs. If you are in luck, you might find something you were searching for at the flea market there.

And then came the French quarters. The guide rattled off the names of the roads and important spots that come under the square area as we passed them -Jackson Square, the Cabildo (Louisiana State Museum), Canal Street, Royal Street, Bourbon Street and many more.

French Quarters is the place where life happens. New Orleans is not a very big city so most of the places you want to go to, you pass through French quarters. This area was earlier known mainly for its night life with theatres, dance places, restaurants and small cheaper bars with live music, now there are shops and offices, small eateries, even bookstores also there.

French Quarters Photo: Colton Clifford

Back in 1806 Bernard de Marigny, a moneyed Creole who owned this land, cut out plots and sold them to people to build houses. The area the French called Vieux Carre or Old Square is good for exploring on foot or bicycle. That way you can appreciate the old bungalows, cottages, townhouses and shotgun shacks or new apartment buildings. There may be painted in bright colours, have large courtyards, wrought iron balconies, tall columns, American or European style houses.  

Their shine now dull, purple, yellow and green colours fading, Mardi Gras decorations were hanging from the old sprawling oaks or newer erect trees along the roads.

We crossed St Augustine Church and St Louis Cemetery No 1, the central business district to Louisiana Superdome also called Ceasar’s Superdome, a multi-purpose stadium, the National WW II Museum and reached back to where we had started.

Please pardon me, it has been a few months and I was not in the pink of health so I might have missed out on some features, but with whatever I remember, the city was worth a visit.

It was evening by the time we finished the tour. Hot and tired we decided to venture out refreshed for dinner in the cool night.

New Orleans, believe me, is an altogether different scene at night. It is not only during Mardi Gras that the city is worth visiting. It is like having a huge party every night with light and music, food, drinks and people everywhere. Some roads were closed and tables put up for anyone to sit and eat as they enjoyed the music filtering out of the various bars and clubs all around.

It was the first time in my life that I was at a place where my ears screamed ‘let us party’. French, Spanish, African, and Native American people have lived here, their music still lives on, sometimes pure, sometimes with under or over tones of other cultures and genres.  Restaurants and bars have live music - jazz, blues, rock, hip hop, metal (many types, I was surprised) and several more besides burlesque and drag shows.

Did I tell you that New Orleans was chosen as a destination because Mani is a jazz fan? I have heard the names of Louis Armstrong, Duke Ellington, Chick Corea and John Coltrane among his favourites.

Showing off his knowledge, he informed that New Orleans is the place where jazz as a genre was born, where Africans, Americans, Afro-Cubans, and all other communities, with harmony and melody in their veins, expressed themselves through music, playing rhythmic layers on musical instruments from Europe and came out with something sensational. Ironically, New Orleans is also said to be the only American city where African slaves were allowed to play their music in public.

World famous jazz festival Jazzfest is organized in the city every year in April. The city also has the oldest American Opera Association and there is the Louisiana Philharmonic Symphony too.

Mani had made reservations at Maison, a restaurant, bar and music club with live jazz, on Frenchmen Street (top photos). Now, my knowledge of music is limited to old Europop and the musicians I have heard and still hear, are those who I and others my age have had crushes on, from time to time. But what the heck, why not I thought.

I listened and enjoyed the vibrant energy for a while. Marvelling at the lung power of the artists, I soon realised that I did not get the lyrics well, so focussed on the jambalaya, fried chicken wings, the delicious salad and the wonderful cocktails. Mani would have liked to perhaps move on to other bars but they were all packed and reservations are a must during weekends. 

If you are on a budget or not a nightbird, do not lose heart. I felt like I had come to the capital of music. Take a stroll in the city in the afternoon or evening and you will find musicians and bands playing at several places for free. It could be a young girl singing, using only a microphone and a speaker or a multi-member band equipped with the whole paraphernalia- cello, violin, guitar, saxophone, trumpet, trombone, brass horn, drums, playing with an honesty that only musicians have. You stop, listen, your feet tap, slowly your hips sway, your neck moves with the rhythm, you hum and you are one with them. The atmosphere is, for want of a better word just - sexy!   (To be concluded)

                                                                                                -Anupama S Mani