Timeless Trails in Georgia

Georgia Diary-4

Timeless Trails in Georgia

Rock-cut town of Uplistsikhe

Last Saturday I told you about our visit to Dashbashi canyon. The next day was our last day to visit places. Though it was not a very long list, it took up the whole day.

We drove to Mtskheta, 20 km from Tbilisi, and one of the oldest ‘continuously’ inhabited cities in the world.

Our first stop, sixth-century Jvari Monastery, is situated on the top of Mount Jvari, close to Mtskheta and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Legend is that Saint Nino, known to have converted Iberian King Mirian III to Christianity, erected a huge cross where a pagan temple stood. Believing in the miraculous powers of the cross, people built a church on what was left over of the cross. Later, giving in to the needs of the time, a bigger church was built in the late sixth century.

Like all other churches, it suffered damage during battles between kings. It was burnt by the Arabs in 914, but repaired later and the same was repeated during Tumur’s invasion.

Another surprise, the Soviets during their rule preserved it as a monument of national importance.

As are most other churches, this one too seems to be balanced on the edge of the cliff. I cannot boast of having much knowledge of architecture, so I shall stay away from the architectural details. What catches one’s attention is the huge cross on a pedestal (the site of St Nino’s cross) and a smaller cross next to it. You can admire the bas reliefs sculptures with inscriptions at leisure. Photography is allowed.

The big cross is behind the original one on a pedestal.

According to legend, though Mtskheta town was founded in the 1st millennium BCE by Mtskhetos, great reformer king, Parnavaz, proclaimed it the capital of Kartli Kingdom (Iberia) in the 4th century BCE. Excavations have shown the evidence of human inhabitation as early as in the 3^rd and 2^nd millennia here.

In 2014, the head of the Orthodox Church bestowed the title of ‘holy city’ on Mtskheta, a place of reverence for Georgians. It remains the headquarters of the Georgian Orthodox Church.

King Dachi shifted the capital from Mtskheta to Tbilisi. Though it affected the city’s importance, Mtskheta continued to be used as the coronation and burial place for most Georgian kings until the 19th century. 

Our next stop was one of the most sacred places for Georgians, the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, known to be the place where Christ's mantle is buried.

Relic of St Andrew
the first-called, Apostle

The cathedral stands in a large area enclosed within a stone and brick wall. It has the graves of the ancient Georgian kings and Sidonia is said to be buried holding Christ's robe. Other prominent kings buried here include Vakhtang Gorgasali, King Erekle and his son George XII etc.

My eyes peeled to pick out the unique, I noticed the relic of St Andrew, the first Apostle at this church, preserved there. The Georgian church considers the saint as the founder of Georgian Christian church and its first preacher here.

Naval ensign

Sitting here I wonder if the flag with St Andrew’s cross that fly atop Russian warships (since 1703, the occupation of Kotlin Island) is in fact, connected with the same saint, who was a fisherman. I heard that he baptized Russia. The naval flag with the Saltire symbolizes Russia's access to the four seas i.e., the Azov, Baltic, Azov Caspian and White, says my sourced information. Will any reader from Russia please enlighten us?

One remarkable item that I noticed in the church was the elaborate heavy brass votives i.e., pillar candle stands. Like I had seen in Jveri monastery in the morning, here too, a woman was picking out the remaining bits of burnt candles from out of the pans in which the devout stick the lighted candles.

Later, we took a short walk in the souvenir market outside the cathedral feasting our eyes on the colourful wares before we got into the car to drive further.

This archeological star attraction that Georgia has, is the rock-cut town near Uplistsikhe (meaning the fortress of the tribal lord), that we went to (top photo). The rocky caves and structures are said to be from as far back in history as the early iron age to the late Middle Ages. This earliest human settlement in Georgia is originally believed to have had 700 caves, only 150 out of which remain now.

Genghis Khan, the destructive agent that he was, destroyed about two thirds of the structures during his invasion, and more damage was done by earthquakes in the middle-ages, forcing the people living there to leave it.

I would recommend first watching the short film in the museum at the entrance, to get a better understanding of the site. It focusses on the religious and political importance of the town and shows routes followed by traders from various regions and countries in Asia and Europe.

The film familiarizes you with what the structures were probably used for. It explains the tunnels, water systems, main streets, stables, storages, wine cellars, marketplaces, and a theatre. It shows not only the pottery, ceramics, vessels, and tools but also gold, silver and bronze jewellery retrieved in archaeological findings.

The cave town is a huge spread-out area with structures that look like dwellings of common people as well as those higher in status in the society. It also has temples dedicated to the sun goddess.

Cut into slightly inclining plane, the town had a wall towards the west going down to the river. Two moats also protected it. Among the structures on the south side is a ceremonial hall, we were told. The stone bench like formation was perhaps the ruler’s seat.

There are no decorations in the caves except some stone carvings which give the impression of logs and arches.

According to the legend, Uplistsikhe was built by slaves. They were given a pickaxe, half of which was covered with iron, for excavating the caves, and the other half with gold. The slaves had to work hard to outwear the ordinary metal, after which the slave received freedom and precious metal or gold as a gift.

It was a hot afternoon with the sun shining bright in the sky and there was a lot of climbing and walking to do. I trudged up slowly, but from under a metal railing darted a huge lizard. I had not bargained for these hateful creatures making an appearance here, so needless to say, I did a quick about turn, cautiously stepping down the rocks to sit on a bench under the shady trees.

The others later told me of the brick and stone basilica at the top that I had missed seeing.

It was evening by the time we left the site to visit Gori and tour the Stalin museum but about that in the next post, the last of the series.

Souvenir shopping

Even though I avoid shopping, the colourful wares did catch my eye and I enjoyed browsing. Georgia did not seem like an expensive country and that coming from an Indian, should be encouraging.

There are grocery stores Spencer, Carrefour, Nikora, Goodwill, Gastronome etc., in case you want to pick up something you forgot to bring.

Driving in the countryside, I had noticed small stalls set up by beekeepers and farmers selling honey, woolen socks and mittens.

Georgia being the oldest producers of various varieties of wine, you have a wide choice to pick out from. If you want to bring home some cheese, you would have a tough time selecting what to buy, such is the vast array available.

Yes, of course, you have the usual glut of mugs, fridge magnets etc., but I would say pick up from the assortment of herbal teas and spices available. You can opt for a rolled sheet of tklapi, dried fruit pulp much like our own aam papad.  

You can choose a religious icon, vintage item, rug/carpet, musical instrument, painting, piece of jewellery, wooden carving or enamel work item, the handmade ceramics and goblets also tempt you to part with the Georgian Lari sitting in your wallet.

You could get a collectible, exquisitely handcrafted knife/dagger but how would you bring it and what would you use it for?

It might not be safe for domestic peace to remind Mani how he forgot to bring wine. I, however, looked and looked, and finally picked up the mildly sweet, nearly foot-long strings of churchkhela, i.e., nuts strung, dipped in fruit juice and dried. If you think I acted cheap because churchkhela are inexpensive, look at it this way- they are unique, healthy, environment-friendly, have a long shelf life, do not hurt your baggage weight limit or add to possessions at home, and you are not getting them in India any time soon. (to be concluded)

                                                                                                    -Anupama S Mani