The holy taste of May Tuesdays in Lucknow

The holy taste of May Tuesdays in Lucknow

 Bada Mangal, when the streets become temples, where kindness is served warm, and devotion flows with every bowl.”

Do you think being in the sticky, sweltering heat of Lucknow in May-June sounds like a tragic miscalculation? Ordinarily, yes. But if you happen to find yourself here on a Tuesday in the Hindu month of Jyeshtha, you’ve stumbled into a heartwarming loophole in summer’s tyranny.

No, this is certainly not a weather miracle, and Tuesdays aren’t any cooler. But what you get is a sight as rare as a breeze in the noon sun: crowds standing patiently (mostly otherwise though) in front of small shamiyanas, the flat tents, for a free-meal and buttermilk or sherbet (flavoured, non-dairy, sweet drink). The generosity is not like a flash sale; the whole affair goes on for hours.

That is the celebration of Bada/Budhwa Mangal (Big/Old Tuesday), a festival unique to Lucknow and celebrated on the Tuesdays falling in this month. This year Jyeshtha has five Tuesdays. The third one passed earlier this week, but there are still two more to go. 

The reason for this celebration?

Some say Lord Hanuman (monkey god for easy recognition for those who do not know) met Lord Rama for the first time on a Tuesday in the month of Jyeshtha. Thus, the belief is that all Jyeshtha Tuesdays are auspicious.

The city celebrates the festival for another totally different reason too. Lucknow has a sizeable population of both Hindus and Muslims, and believe it or not, whatever might happen outside, they have lived happily together.

It is said the young son of the last Nawab, Wajid Ali Shah, fell ill. He tried all kinds of doctors and medicine, but to no avail. The boy’s condition kept worsening. The Begum, the wife of the Nawab, distraught over her child’s failing health, asked everyone she could, for help, willing to try anything, however unlikely.

Then some people advised her to visit the old temple of Lord Hanuman in Aliganj area on a Tuesday and pay her obeisance. The worried and anxious mother did as she was told. Slowly, the condition of the boy began to improve and soon enough, he was fit and healthy.

That was a hot summer Tuesday in the month of Jyeshtha.

Grateful and joyous, she offered gur (jaggery) as prasad (offering) to the deity and distributed it among the subjects. The couple became devotees of Lord Hanuman and ordered the reconstruction of the temple. For a century and a half now, this festival is being celebrated in the city.  

Popular belief is that worshipping Hanuman especially on these days, removes all sorrows and problems in life. People turn extra generous and try to feed as many as possible without looking or asking for their religion or faith. The spirit of the day is not in worshipping, but in giving.

I was told that last Tuesday, May 27, was doubly auspicious because it was also the day of Shani Jayanti, i.e., birth of Saturn, to Chhaaya (also means shadow), and Sun god. So, those who believe in astrology and are supposedly suffering the wrath of Saturn, would have benefitted from the worship of Hanuman.

Why?

The story goes that demon king Ravana once kidnapped Lord Shani Dev and put him in jail where he kept him for a considerably long time. The helpless Shani finally worshipped Lord Hanuman who came and freed him. In gratitude, Shani promised to pardon anyone who worshipped Hanuman with full faith.

People desirous of pleasing Hanuman or expressing their gratitude for the boons he has bestowed upon them, organise bhandaras (large free community meals). They set up tents on roadsides, perform pooja (worship) of Lord hanuman with oil lamps, flowers, and red cloth, and make the offering. There are no public declarations or announcements, billboards or advertisements beforehand, just pop-up structures for the occasion!

The usual prasad is poori/kachori (fried/lentils stuffed and fried Indian bread) with spicy kaddu (pumpkin) or potato curry or sometimes karhi-chawal (chickpea soup with chickpea flour dumplings-rice), boondi (sugar syrup-dipped fried droplets of chickpea batter) or halwa. The curry is put at the bottom in environment-friendly done (bowls made of dried leaves) and two to four thick pooris placed on top.

But it is not a quiet occasion. Loudspeakers start blaring at the bhandara venues hours before the actual distribution begins. Depending on the management, there are long orderly queues or huddled noisy crowds. People await their turn and don’t be surprised if you see them strategically getting into the queue again, to get more.

On Budhwa Mangal there is no shame in chasing free food. You see social hierarchies melting in the Lucknow heat. Not only seemingly unprivileged people, but well-dressed, affluent-looking ones get off their cars and motorcycles to accept the offerings. They do not only eat there but also carry some for family at home or others. On any other day you would be horrified to see done stacked like Jenga towers, and plastic bags bulging with enough pooris to last a week, clearly visible and unapologetically flaunted; on this day, however, this is not called gluttony.

Whether it is an expression of a mother's love, a testament to interfaith harmony, an act of charity, or a reflection of Lord Hanuman’s boundless grace, Bada Mangal holds a special place in the heart of Lucknow. It gently reminds us to stay grounded, to serve others without hesitation, and to believe in the quiet strength of prayer. Above all, it celebrates the spirit of coming together of community, compassion, and shared humanity.

Even if you’re like me, more spiritually curious than ritualistically inclined, and are here mostly for the cultural intel (plus the spicy eats), I’d still suggest you to plan your Lucknow visit around a Tuesday in the next fortnight. The prasad is generous, the vibe is unforgettable, and spiritual enlightenment might just come served in a dona.

FYI-The next Bada Mangal is on June 3 and the last one on June 10.

Leftovers of gratitude: Devotion: 100. Civic sense: 0. Should the civic authorities invoke Lord Hanuman to teach people cleanliness? 

                                                                                                - Anupama S Mani