Bhutan diary-1

Bhutan Diary-1

                     Bhutan on a platter

Ever seen such a beautiful luggage conveyor belt at an airport?

Does anyone ever say ‘no’ to a free holiday? Not me, for certain.

Especially when it comes gift-wrapped as a joyful celebration and promises- all expenses paid. I would have to be a dunce to refuse this; after all, I love to travel, appreciate useful free gifts, and I am not doing anything earth-shaking which I cannot postpone.

The occasion was a milestone birthday. A dear friend, more like an older brother, was turning the big seven-oh and his sons, who thankfully take after their dad in generosity, included us in the guest list for a celebratory vacation.

After what I imagine was some serious mental exercise, they zeroed in on Bhutan, the ‘land of the thunder dragon’, India’s small peaceful neighbour in the north-east, also known as the world’s only carbon-negative country.  

The vacation was conveniently short and sweet. Two days of travel and four days of bliss, is what the itinerary promised.

Delhi being the closest to Lucknow, we took the direct Delhi-Paro flight operated by Drukair. I am told there are direct flights to Paro, the only international airport in Bhutan, from other Indian cities as well. A small plane and very courteous crew flew us within two hours, from the hot, humid, crowded Delhi to quiet, rainy, and cool Paro in the evening.

We were informed that only a handful of trained pilots can land at the Paro airport, and after the descent through the mountains, I could see why. The airport was a quiet, unhurried place, the building, with its intricate hand-painted woodwork, felt more like a beautifully kept home.

Immigration Hall, Paro International Airport prepares you for a feast for the eyes and soul during your stay in Bhutan Photos: Smita Chandra

Indian citizens visiting Bhutan do not require a visa. Yet, they must pay Rs1,200 per person per night as Sustainable Development Fee (SDF). Children from 6 to 12 years of age receive a 50% discount, and little ones under 5 years are exempt. Your passport is stamped with an ‘entry permit.’ 

Our nearly hour-long drive to our hotel outside the country’s capital Thimphu, introduced us to the calming scenic beauty of the country. Along the road gurgled Paro Chuu (chuu means river or water in Dzongkha, the official language of Bhutan). It was drizzling, the air was cool, and we feasted our eyes on the lush green-covered mountains on one side and freshly sown paddy fields on the other. How lucky are those who live in such a place, was the first thought that came to my mind!

The resort staff welcomed us with turmeric tea, a cocktail made of Bhutan’s famous peach wine Zumzin with lemon and muddled rosemary, and a traditional dance, slow rhythmic movements to the playing of a beautifully polished Yangqin, a type of ‘hammered dulcimer’. 

The male dancers wore ‘tsholam’, the typical traditional embroidered shoes. The boots, decorated with appliqué and embroidery, were said to have been originally made of silk, but over time, leather began to replace it. The ground material and designs too used to be a symbol of the wearer’s social status, but are now worn for ceremonial occasions.

Tsholam

Ours was a rather large group of 20 people, some of whom had not met earlier, so dinner time was also our getting-to-know one another time.

The impressive spread of typical Bhutanese food included red rice, ema datshi, a signature spicy dish of chili peppers and cheese, vegetable, chicken and pork momos and nakay or fiddlehead fern (photo below) which I had enjoyed eating during our Tawang trip where it was called dhekia. See:

https://anupamaexcursions.blogspot.com/2023/05/tawang-diary-1-guwahati-bhalukpong.html

The first morning, after breakfast, we piled into a bus and started off for Rinpung Dzong. Enamoured by the clean waters of the Paro River flowing along the road and the greenery everywhere, the consensus was that we stop to admire the scene, and breathe the fresh air. Everyone dipped their feet in the cool water, went ooh-aah over the scene, and picked up as souvenirs, some stones sculpted by the gushing waters, their roughness long washed away. Of course, there was a photo session too, smart phones have made that criminally easy. Some among us chose the lone kiosk selling bead and metal jewellery, souvenirs, and knick-knacks, to make their first purchases of the trip. 

Rinpung Dzong

It is said that grateful for his spiritual guidance, the locals offered a rocky cliff to a lama in the 15^th century, who built a small temple here and afterwards, a five-storeyed fortress. His descendants offered it to Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, said to be the unifier of the modern-day Bhutan, in the 17^th century as a tribute for his religious and political authority. Shabdrung went on to knock the old Dzong down and build a new one which was consecrated in 1646. Since then, it has been called Rinpung Dzong or ‘the fortress of the heap of jewels’ and has served as the religious seat of power. It miraculously survived the massive 1897 earthquake but was damaged in a fire in 1907.

Breathtaking painted woodwork details everywhere!

The large courtyard is surrounded by several buildings, all leading to the main prayer hall. Inside the hall, the atmosphere was calm and peaceful. In front of the Buddha idol, lamps flickered gently, casting a warm glow on the clean, gleaming surfaces. There were idols of Guru Rinpoche and Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal among several others in glass cases, with offerings placed in front of them. The hall was decorated with golden details, colourful fabric patchwork, and prayer flags, a quiet feast for the eyes. Photography is not allowed inside this hall.

As I came out of the prayer hall, I could not find my shoes. Surprised, I looked around among the mostly upmarket sports footwear of the other group members but could not find mine. I finally managed to find them thrown carelessly on the other side of the steps to the hall.

A plump monastery rooster was strutting outside as if it owned the place. It clucked pointedly at my humble walking shoes, looking clearly offended by my utter lack of style.

The guide told us that people bring these birds as offerings, but since Buddhists don’t believe in killing animals, the monks feed them. The birds fatten up and grow strong. Some of them get into the habit of picking up random objects in their beaks, and moving them here and there as they please.

We proceeded for lunch at a multi-cuisine restaurant in a hotel amidst the blue pine forests in the Paro valley where they offered only fresh organic food.

Oh, what a pleasure holidays are when there is just a little movement of body, so I can eat guiltlessly as if calories are a myth and health, somebody else’s problem.

Lunch time was also the time when I picked the brains of the young brother duo in our group, who had trekked early in the morning to Tiger’s Nest, before visiting the Dzong. Honestly, I would not have lasted the trek, so the information gleaned and given here, is for trekking and fitness enthusiasts among you. 

Tiger's Nest, beautiful, precariously perched-on-a-cliff more than 900 metres above the Paro Valley, is a working Vajrayana Buddhist monastery, looking more like a picture postcard from afar.

No road leads up to the place; one must climb up a single steep trail to reach there. This exercise, graded as moderate, is counted among the most popular hikes around the world. It, however, offers as rewards the scenic view of the Paro valley and the pilgrimage to the monastery.

The trail is about three km either way, with the upwards footslog taking more time. Mules can take you halfway but it exhausts them, our guide Denzin had told us. The trek is sometimes steep, and the route slippery in places, but the young men stopped midway at the cafeteria to reenergise themselves with a cup of tea in the early morning, they said. The idea is to start early in the morning to escape the increasing heat of the sun during the day.

Also known as Taktshang Goemba, Paro Taktsang or Taktsang Palphug Monastery, Tiger's Nest is actually one of 13 so-called ‘tiger lair’ caves where Guru Padmasambhava, a key figure in the early development of Tibetan Buddhism, meditated in the early ninth century in what was then Tibet. Yet it gained recognition as a pilgrimage centre only after the monastery was built here in the end of the 17^th century. 

There are several versions of how Guru Padmasambhava came there, but the common factor is that he had appeared on a tigress, hence the name.

Tiger Nest Photo: Sarthak Jain

Satiated and happy with life after lunch, we got into the bus to go to the National Museum. But, the mere sight of the building atop a hill and the idea of climbing up several floors right after a late lunch to look at the artefacts and exhibits, drew loud ‘nah’, ‘nah’ from nearly everybody and pleased with the unanimous decision, we decided to visit the Thimphu market instead.

The shops on both sides of the long road sold nearly similar items, only at different prices and scale of variety available. (More on shopping later).

After browsing for more than an hour, comparing prices and picking up some thing or the other, we realized the sun had set and it was getting dark. We called it a day, got back into our bus like schoolchildren, and drove back to the resort on the hilly, winding roads.

It was a relaxed drinks and dinner time before we slipped to our rooms to rest our weary limbs.

Fiddlehead fern cooked the Bhutanese way Photo: Facebook

Lesson one from Bhutan: unless you are fit, healthy, and ready to tackle stone steps and sloping paths, stay back in the hotel. Get a massage, listen to music, breathe in fresh air, sigh at the cloud-covered sky, sip your peach wine or black coffee, read a book, do whatever you like best, and call it a wellness retreat! (To be continued)

                                                                                                - Anupama S Mani