Bhutan Diary-2 Dochu La, Punakha Dzong, riverwater rafting

Bhutan Diary-2

From Dochu La to Datshi-

High Passes and Deep Flavours

Dochu La pass

Last Saturday, I shared the beginning of our recent trip to Bhutan, including a visit to Rinpung Dzong on our very first day.

The next morning, our group split into two: the enthusiastic explorers, and those who preferred to take it slow. I joined the first lot, eager to soak it all in like blotting paper, and in the process, thoroughly tested the limits of my limbs.
We began the day with a drive to Dochu La. (Incidentally, I’ve noticed that La, in all languages influenced by Tibetan, means pass.)

It took us about half an hour to reach the pass located at an elevation of 3,100 metres. We were told that snow-clad Mt Masang Kang and Mt Gangkar Puensum, the mountain peaks of the Himalayas, can be seen to the east of the pass, but it was not to be. It was foggy and an occasional rain-drop would fall, so, we climbed up the few steps to the memorial built with the backdrop of tall, evergreen cypress trees.

The 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens, are in the honour of the ‘35’ Royal Army of Bhutan soldiers (http://www.raon.ch/pages/bt/btbodo12c2.html)  who lost their lives while fighting United Liberation Front of Assam (ULFA) and other Indian insurgent groups, in a military operation in 2003. The battle was also called Operation All Clear and King Jigme Singye Wangchuck had himself led the army.

The number 108 is considered sacred in Buddhism. The eldest Queen Mother, Her Majesty Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck, had commissioned the building of these stupas. Constructed in three different sizes, the beautifully adorned shrines represent different ranks of the soldiers. They were built following religious ceremonial processes whereby at various stages grains, butter, papers inscribed with prayers were interred. The red poles have sacred hymns, gilded images of gods and prayer bells, etc. fixed on them.

The Dochu La Pass is on the road which connects Thimphu, with Punakha, in the west. After paying our respects to the soldiers, we continued on our way to Punakha.

Our destination, popularly called the Punakha Dzong, located at the confluence of Pho Chhu (male) and Mo Chu (female) rivers in the Punakha valley, was more than an hour away. The name of this majestic fortress Pungthang Dewa Chhenbi Phodrang means ‘palace of great happiness or bliss’.

Top left: Wooden stairs, Right: Bodhi tree
Bottom Left: Inside prayer Hall, Photography is not allowed. Photo: Wikipedia 
Bottom right: Bhanwar Chakra mural outside the prayer hall depicts life, deeds and sufferings when born as human being, god, animal, etc. six forms.

As you cross the wooden cantilever bridge, (Bazam in Dzongkha) to get to the huge wooden gate of the Dzong, you are greeted as usual, by stairs. A few steps ahead, scarily steep wooden stairs take you to the main set of buildings. I was told the stairs are so designed that they can be pulled up, and the huge wooden door is always closed at night.

The dzong has three courtyards. The first one has administrative buildings, a white-washed stupa, and a bodhi (peepul) tree. The monks live in the second courtyard. In this courtyard, there are two ancient halls.

In the third courtyard, Pema Lingpa and Ngawang Namgyal have been buried. At the south end is a prayer hall with 54 pillars, called ‘hundred-pillar’ assembly hall. Giant gold statues of the Buddha, Guru Rinpoche or Padmasambhava and the Zhabdrung built sometime in the 18^th century, catch your attention.

One interesting fact about Padmasambhava is that, while the Buddha embodied knowledge and compassion, Padmasambhava is believed to have possessed power as well. Remember, he is said to have appeared riding a tigress at the Tiger’s Nest!

The peaceful hall is adorned with breathtaking murals depicting the life of the Buddha. Gleaming gold, dull red, and vibrant green surround you, so radiant that you instinctively close your eyes in reverence.

Punakha Tshechu festival, which honours Guru Rinpoche is held in this dzong every year.

After all the climbing up and down, our enthusiasm had mellowed a bit and our knees shown their proper place, we boarded the bus to head to a well-known farm-to-table restaurant for lunch.

Re-energised, we returned to the banks of the Mo Chhu for an afternoon of whitewater rafting. The river, considered female, is said to be gentler than her male counterpart.Now, I do not need to put up posters on city walls to declare that I’m scared of every physical activity I suspect might injure me. I don’t even know how to swim. Naturally, I opted out and followed the group by road, exclaiming loudly into the air the whole way.

The others, all adventurous types aged between 9 and 67, geared up in life- jackets, helmets, and rubber slippers, and, armed with oars, got into the inflated boat for the nearly one-hour activity.

A rafting guide with safe rafting guide certificate from a recognised institute under his belt, was accompanying the group.

The river water was calm, if mildly gurgling at places, with no steep waterfalls, and the exercise seemed beginner-friendly although the two young men among us, were near-pro at rafting.

River rafting and kayaking are popular adventure sports in Bhutan. We were told Pho Chhu, known for its 16km course ‘with 15 rapids of class 2-4,’ whatever that means to be honest, is popular with the adventurous crowd.

The river water was clean, the scenery beautiful and no crowds to hustle you. No wonder that now in hindsight, I feel foolish for giving up such a golden opportunity. 

But I did not entirely waste my time. I walked up and down (till midway) on the famous suspension bridge there. The steel cable structure with  mesh on the sides structure has a narrow pedestrian path made of metal grating. Hundreds of colourful prayer flags tell its importance to the people.

Now to one of my favourite parts of travelling: eating. Yes, the food.

If you are a little familiar with Tibetan, Chinese or nearer home, Nepalese, and North-eastern Indian cuisine, then Bhutanese food will not be a complete mystery. But it still feels different, with bold, earthy flavours that stay with you.
I had told you about eating Ema Datshi, a spicy, soupy dish where plump green chillies swim in a thick, melting cheese sauce. The heat doesn’t slap you; it builds, slowly but firmly. And nakey, the fiddlehead ferns, lightly sautéed, with a pleasant crunch and a faint nuttiness that tasted like something straight from a mountain forest.

Kewa Datshi, its milder sibling, on the other hand is made with potatoes, chillies and cheese. Potatoes are diced or sliced, and cooked just right, soft but not mushy, with local cheese and either butter or oil.

Another cousin is Shamu Datshi, i.e., mushroom cooked with cheese, which results in a creamy broth.

Momos are slowly becoming street food in India, so these wheat-flour dumplings, stuffed with minced pork, beef, or even cheese, mixed with chopped onions and cabbage, then steamed or fried, felt familiar. In Bhutan, they’re served with ezay, a super-hot red chilli sauce that clears your sinuses in one whiff.
We are also familiar with thukpa, the comforting noodle soup with vegetables, sometimes, with chicken or pork.

There were several other dishes featuring chicken, dried beef, and pork, but there simply wasn’t enough time (or stomach space) to try them all. The fresh trout, though, stuffed and grilled, was devoured by everyone, no questions asked.

I did try Gondo Datshi, i.e., eggs scrambled in butter, with cheese mixed in. Served at breakfast or with rice, it is rich, but honestly, you are not missing much if you skip it.

Although most the Bhutanese dishes are meat-based, (Bhutan imports a significant portion of its chicken, pork, and beef to meet domestic demand), I gave the pumpkin curry and khur-le (buckwheat pancakes) a try. To be honest, it was underwhelming, bland, soft, and politely forgettable.

Yet the star and nearly everyone’s favourite on the table was the traditional cucumber salad. It was only later I found out that in Goen hogay i.e., cucumber slices, mixed with tomato, cilantro, onions, chili flakes and Sichuan pepper, crumbled datshi cheese is used for that special flavour.

In just about every vegetable shop and food store, you'll see pale white cubes strung on threads like edible garlands. This is ‘chhurpi’, yak cheese and a solid source of protein. The soft kind makes its way into momos and stews, while the hard version is meant to be chewed slowly, like gum.

Don’t be surprised but because of how it can last in the mouth for a couple of hours, chhurpi has gained a name as dog chew treat.

In respect of cheese, while Bhutanese cuisine relies on local cheese for flavour, Amul cheese is also quite popular there.

The peaches there must find a mention! Although not very sweet, very juicy and soft they were, and a perfect pick-me-up for all that road journey.

Something that some among us tried and did not relish was supari (areca nut) or ‘doma’ in Bhutanese. In India, the nut is dried and processed, but the Bhutanese eat it fresh and moist, which makes it very bitter to taste, potent and thus, nearly unpalatable for us.

One of my personal favourites was zaow, crunchy, puffed red rice, lightly roasted. At our hotel, it was served like muesli, mixed with nuts and dried fruits, and I loved munching on it as a snack all by itself. I do regret not buying some to bring back home. Take the hint, if you are heading to Bhutan.
While regular tea with milk is available, suja or yak butter tea is also very popular, though I must say, it’s definitely an acquired taste.
And not to forget, Druk Premium Lager (blue can) stood out as the better beer, at least for me. But then, taste is a personal thing. Cheers to you! (To be concluded).

Our driver and guide, always ready with their phones - alert, capturing our best angles before we even posed. The real MVPs of our trip!
Photo: Kanupriya Jain

                                                                                                  -Anupama S Mani