Bhutan Diary - 3 last Postal Museum, Shopping

Bhutan Diary - 3 last

Last Notes in a Himalayan Reverie

Bhutanese fold dances

The past two Saturdays, I dragged you along on the first two hectic days of our Bhutan trip. Day three was the birthday we had actually come for, a much more relaxed affair. Some of us made the most of the spa, others vanished into the worlds conjured by their books, while a few chose the noble pursuit of sleep like there was a medal to win.

In the forenoon, a group went to a small Buddhist temple nearby to light lamps in prayers and gratitude, and look at everything from a close range.

The hotel had been asked to arrange a picnic lunch and the cloudy afternoon was spent in the lap of nature, by the side of a rivulet. We were not alone; it seemed Sunday is the day of relaxing for others too. At several places men could be seen practising archery, the national sport of Bhutan.

Photo taken with the group's permission

We had a visitor in the evening, a Bhutanese astrologer. I shall refrain from commenting on astrology, lest the stars should conspire against me, but let me just say I was curious, though skeptical.

The gentleman needed a hotel staffer to interpret, though I am not entirely sure how faithfully my fate survived that translation. He asked me to roll two dice, counted the total, consulted three books in Dzongkha, and began reciting my future in a slow, staccato rhythm. Did my destiny need buffering time?

Apparently, he had been instructed to deliver only the good news, but the thrill wore off somewhere between his cryptic gestures and vague diagnoses. At one point, he tapped his forearms, or was it his joints, and back, and warned that I’d suffer pains there in old age. So, if you ever hear me complaining, you know it was foretold.

I did exchange notes with the others later, and got the impression that everyone was destined to outshine their husbands in business, a rather specific prophecy for a diverse group. He also gave each one a thread of one of the five sacred colours. I am trying not to read any meaning into this, yet notably, only one male in our group had his future read. Did the stars find the rest of them beyond repair?

The evening was a long, joyous celebration of the once-in-a-lifetime occasion. It started with vibrant Bhutanese dances by a troupe (top photo), followed by warm wishes and messages from the birthday boy’s family and friends who couldn’t be there, plenty of music, and an indulgent buffet spread. A proper party!

L: Clay and colored small stupa-shaped offerings placed on a rock face by devotees. R: A chorten (stupa) surrounded by prayer flags in a forested area, often visited for blessings and meditation. R Photo: Archna Jain

The next day was the last of our glorious and unique sojourn, so everybody tried to tick off whatever was left on their lists.  The young men chose some leisure cycling, and dutifully sent photos of the Buddha Dordenma or throned Buddha, keeping watch over Thimphu.

Photo: Facebook

We whiled away time till the leisurely lunch at a famous restaurant, from where the gigantic Buddha Dordenma- Shakyamuni Buddha statue, could be seen in the mountains. It was constructed to celebrate the 60th anniversary of fourth king Jigme Singye Wangchuck. At 177 feet (54 m) this is one of the largest Buddha stupas in the world. I could not see from that distance but was told that it contains 100,000 eight-inch-tall and 25,000 foot-tall gilded bronze Buddha statues, and everything sits upon a large meditation hall.

Realizing that we just had a few waking hours left to see the place, we tried to cover up as much ground as possible after lunch.

Photo: Smita Chandra

A section from among us, including the children, went to the zoo to have a look at the Bhutan Takin (gnu goat) or drong gimtse. This national animal of the kingdom state and protected under law, is native to Bhutan, although contrary to what we were told, it is also found in China, Tibet and what I had no idea about, the north east in India.

The story about this unique animal is that Divine Madman Drukpa Kunley, was asked to perform a miracle to prove his spiritual powers. He asked that a goat and a cow be provided to him to eat. The villagers roasted the animals and the Drukpa polished off both, leaving bare bones for the people to see. Then he attached the head of the goat to the skeleton of the cow, clapped his hands and, voila, a live animal stood up and ran away.

Thereafter, we went to see the Bhutan Postal Museum at Chang Lam, Thimphu. It tells the history and evolution of post and communication in the country through artefacts, little tales and of course, a large variety of stamps.

This place is a delight to go through, right from the ancient mail runner’s uniform, old telephones, teleprinters, coins, religious artefacts, to the unique set of seven miniature, one-sided vinyl records that can be used as postage stamps (1972). These stamps contain recordings of Bhutanese folk songs, the national anthem, and the history of Bhutan in both English and Dzongkha. What I probably did not understand was that there were some with QR codes which on scanning, played traditional Bhutanese music!

Every museum has a shop, but the one here allows the visitors to print their own customized stamps as souvenirs. Surprise your family or friends with the postman (a rarity these days) bringing a letter with your or even their pictures on the stamp! 

L: Bhutanese stamps celebrating Indo-Bhutan friendship. R: A mosaic portrait of the Fourth King of Bhutan, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, composed entirely of miniature images of Bhutanese postage stamps.

Shopping

The Indian rupee is accepted everywhere, which makes shopping easier.

We had gone to Thimphu market on the first day. A poor shopper, I was more interested in seeing the handicrafts of Bhutan, so what better way than a visit to the craft bazaar on the last evening.

As you stroll along Norzin Lam, a lively stretch of less than a kilometre lined with around 80 bamboo kiosks, you will see artisans creating their crafts right in front of you—sewing, weaving, crocheting, and more. This bazaar was set up to support rural communities and preserve Bhutan’s traditional arts, many of which have been passed down through generations.

You can pick up small souvenirs like keyrings with Buddhist motifs, purses, bead jewellery, or opt for more elaborate items like traditional masks, woven bags, brassware, wooden bowls, cups, and bamboo baskets. There are also stoles, shawls, carpets, and Thangkas- beautiful Tibetan Buddhist paintings on cotton or silk, depicting deities and mandalas, much like the grand ones you may have seen in temples, and I am sorry that I forgot to mention.

For textiles, the market offers cotton, raw cotton, silk with intricate woven motifs, and luxuriously soft yak wool and lamb wool garments. The bazaar is a rich, sensory experience and a window into Bhutan’s heritage.

Then there are Dzi, or Himalayan beads which come in various shapes and patterns and are believed to carry positive energy and healing powers, often strung into bracelets or necklaces. They’re expensive, but I regret buying anything made with them.

         Inset: Miniature Bhutanese dresses, on left kira (women)
and on the right Gho (men) as bottle covers!

Something else that’s hard to miss, though you might pretend not to notice, are the brightly painted wooden or resin phalluses of all sizes. The Divine madman also known as Saint of 5,000 Women, who had created the Takin, is also given the credit of popularising these, both as wall paintings to ward off evil as well as, statues of reverence.

We first spotted them painted on houses. Again, we saw them being sold in several shops, and, predictably, exchanged sniggers and side glances, until the salesgirl, with the sternness of a hostel warden, informed us they are symbols of fertility and good luck, and that we should really consider buying one.

Living in India, where luck clearly has not been lacking in the population department, we politely declined. The furrows on the forehead of a senior lady among us were so deep that I could almost hear her thinking, ‘Imagine the scandal if this works now!’

No surprise then, that Chimi Lhakhang in Punakha, a monastery where monks bless childless couples with these very symbols—did not feature on our itinerary.

Among eatables besides Chhurpi, something else that you can pick up from a grocery store, if you want your food to have that extra sharpness, is Bhutanese red chillies.

And if you enjoy a peg or two in the evening, pick up a bottle of K5 Himalayan Whisky. Blended and bottled in Bhutan, it was named after His Majesty King Jigme Khesar Namgyal Wangchuck, the 5th king of Bhutan. Smooth on the palate, it smells woody, slightly smoky and tastes sweet with a hint of cinnamon.

The next day, we flew back home, and straight into the waiting world of reality. But I ought to thank God, really, how often does an entire group come together with such ease, such quiet comfort in each other’s company?

And, maybe I should also start drafting a plan right away, just to ensure I stay on the guest list when another fabulous vacation gets planned on the next birthday! Any suggestions?

Airport: Departure terminal, Bhutan’s Paro Airport: A tribute to the Bhutanese nuns. 

Note: In a valiant attempt to remind my family that I’m still on the planet, and not just a name buried somewhere in their WhatsApp contacts, I will be off travelling for the next fortnight. See you here later! 

                                                                                               - Anupama S Mani